I sit here in my wee room, surrounded by photo albums, great Cuban music CDs and a wee journal. I am also expecting to have coffee delivered...all the way from Montgomerry's...that will keep me going at least until my second week of Cuba. Not only that, but I am wearing my Che Guevara t-shirt, I am really getting into the mood!

But first, let me quickly tell you about December...

December 1st - 12th

There wasn't much going on in December - except that I always say that and then end up going on and on and on...And On.

But it was quite quiet. I had to put my scooter in again! I'm not even going there this time...BUT, its still not right, and I'm liking my scooter less in the wintertime when the lights are all to hell!

Mind you, what do I know?

You see, I got myself this groovy wee intellitouch tuner. Its great, you just clip it to the guitar and it works on vibrations and so no outside noise interferes with it and so, guitar in perfect tune. However, it broke! No problem, just buy new batteries. And still, it was broken. So, no probs, onto the website, still in warranty, send it over and we'll have a look at it. A really great company who kept in touch, let me know what was going on, etc. Well, the last e-mail I received from the guy was the where he told me I had the batteries in BACK TO FRONT! How embarrassing was that - I am a gadget gal no longer!

Another thing this week was the show of the year - Judy Fielding School of Dance Christmas Show. You know the one where I am the musical director and my wee God-Daughter completely steals the show? Yep, you know the one...Well, it was in a fancy theatre thing this year...really great. I had a big control room with lights and minidisc players and CD players and curtains that opened and closed and...well, thankfully no batteries included. It was great and magical and, I'm sure there were other people on stage, but Caitlin TOTALLY stole the show.

Then, straight after that we were off down to Barnsley. Judy, Caitlin, Amanda and I. Rock and Roll.

It was Lee Noble, CL fan and Elkie Brooks backing singer who'd organised it. As well as that, Tony and Hillary Heald, the couple who arranged the last show I did in Barnsley, had arranged a really nice hotel for us and stuff, so I was looking forward to it. A gig and a birthday all rolled into one.

We got to the gig. It was a lovely wee restaurant in the centre of Barnsley. It was a really cold night, really cold. But there they were, all the Barnsley folk out in the street with absolutely no clothes on...well, a wee tiny dress and open shoes and guys with short sleeved shirts and no jackets. Now, I hate to sound like my Gran, but, my god, people in Barnsley wear no clothes - THEY MUST BE FREEZING! I mentioned this fact at the gig and the audience nodded in agreement with a knowing look on their faces. Mind you at the end of the night, they all got up and put on big winter woollies and fake furs and hats and gloves and stuff - an older (and dare I say, smarter) crowd. Tony and Hillary were there, up the front, listening and cheering. So were Lee and his guitar player friend, John...infact, they did a couple of tunes. It was a really great night. I finished with Mrs D&G and noticed a guy standing outside the door trying to listen in. I don't know if he liked what he heard, but he must have, because when I got to the last wee bit, the guy just fell through the door! Just like that...I think he had had a few, but I know that he had hardly any clothes on - ie, wee shirt and stuff. Anyway, everyone, including me, just looked round at the guy, watched him get up and leave...then I strummed my last chord. It was perfect timing - couldn't have planned it if I'd tried!

As ever, I got talking to some of the folk at the end of the night and I found out that there is actually a place in the centre of Barnsley for people to leave their coats and bags and stuff if they are going for a night out. Can you believe it? A massive big cloakroom right in the centre of town - amazing!

Next morning I was awakened by my lovely wee girl and a birthday breakfast...there's something all warm and squishy about waking up in a hotel on your birthday with all your favourite people around...yummo...


December 13th - 19th

A wee chat this week with Davie Scott from The Pearlfishers to discuss production of the new album...watch this space...

So, one of my birthday pressies was lunch...IN PARIS! Eh? Yep, 'fancy some lunch next Saturday...in Paris?'. This was a first. What a great thing to do. Its great, cos my diary entry that day just reads 'Paris'. How cool is that?

6 am flights, Paris by 11. Coffee on the Champ Elysses. Shopping. Lunch. More coffee...I mean, that was all I wanted to do, have a coffee and a croissant...then back home at 7pm. Is that surreal or what? It was a lovely day out, although a wee bit rushed. Usually when I do a trip or travel, I always have a plan, guide book, map, no friends(!). You know, just generally, anal about having a plan, however, this time I didn't even think about it. I think because, I didn't believe it would happen. Plus, I think I would have liked to stay over - for about a month! I had wanted to revisit my haunt from 1990, outside the Pompidou Centre, busking with Amanda in baking sunshine - happy days indeed. (actually, I must put a note into tell you about our experience there...I'll save it for next month I think)


December 20th-27th

Getting close to the Cuba stories - I'm dead excited!

But first, I was asked to participate in a service to commemorate one of the saddest tragedies in the history of Paisley - the Glen Cinema Disaster. A potted history of the event is that on Hogmanay (new year's eve) 1929, 71 children were killed trying to escape a fire in the cinema in Paisley's town centre. Sadly, all of the exits were locked and many of the children were crushed in the rush to get out. Propounding the tragedy even further is the fact that there was no fire at all, but only smoke coming from a reel of film. On the positive side, a direct result of the tragedy was that emergency exits in public buildings became law. My brother - Anthony (or Tony to his workmates) asked me to sing. He is heavily involved in the Paisley Development Trust, a voluntary organisation that wants to raise a positive profile of Paisley and its history.

There was to be a lantern procession through the town centre followed by a service in the wonderful Paisley Abbey - I'm sure my voice is still echoing there just now. There were may survivors of the tragedy there, so already it was going to be hard. My role was to sing a song. A particularly nice part about this is that the late Danny Kyle - a wonderful musician from Paisley - had written lyrics and I put the tune to it...a real buddies effort. It was an incredible night. The plan now is to record the song and release it, with all the proceeds going to a charity of mine and the Kyle family's choice. Recording time was put up by the owner of Lightstand Productions - a studio in Paisley. The owner is the son of one of the survivors. Again, a real Paisley Buddies effort.

Also in the run up to Christmas, I did lots of shopping for Cuba...ie toiletries, pencils, guitar strings for the folk there. We were told that such items were so expensive and that, if possible, we should take some to give out to folk...we took more than some. In fact, Amanda was really concerned about her luggage allowance for the plane!

Anyway, Christmas...lovely...nice big family lunch...then friends for evening party...then home to pack properly for Cuba.

And, at last - CUBA!

Have you got some fresh coffee? a comfy seat? some food to last for at least 3 days?!


HAVANA December 28th - January 1st 

Great plane journey - Air France - and the travelling foursome were off again. But not before I got in the taxi in Edinburgh at 5 am - looking gorgeous! You know, all dishevelled, messy hair, sleep in my eyes and groggy and stuff. Only to be asked by the taxi driver - 'eh, are you the lassie that sings?' Always nice to be recognised - well, almost always!

When we got to Cuba, again, all the guide books talked of it taking six hours to get through customs and how we have to be careful with what we take in etc. Well, we got there and, yes, there was a wait at customs...but nothing too long - maybe 30 mins. Up to the customs guy and...it started! Basically, I pulled the customs guy...Honestly, I could have been married many times on the trip. Funny, you'd think being in Cuba, Cuban's would be more into a different looking type - you know, red hair and stuff - like happened with Amanda last year in Mexico. But no, I found myself with many Novios on this trip - some good and some not so good...more to follow!

We took a taxi through some amazing streets to get to old Havana. Honestly, this was amazing. Its like nothing I have ever seen, or smelled, or heard. There were no street lights - these people really took the 'save it' campaign seriously. There were no advertisement bill boards, only big boards that hailed the revolution and the heroes of the revolution. It was incredible, like a movie set. Then we saw it...our first old car - BAM. Straight out of an old movie, this big chevvvy. We were all shouting, then another appeared. They were everywhere - those and Ladas.

And then, there was the music. I am sure I will revisit this subject again and again and again. But I gotta tell you. It was everywhere. Pumping out of houses, bars, cars, bicitaxis. That was just the recordings. But in EVERY bar there were musicians playing. Not just any musicians, but, honestly, world class musicians. Just standing in the bar playing and passing the hat round. I found the whole thing really emotional.

My recount here will never be able to do justice to the place, it was surreal - in the best way possible.

But, I'm jumping the gun a wee bit. We got to our casa. There are many types of accommodation in Cuba. We chose the one where you are living with a Cuban family. We kind of felt the experience would be more real. And real it was...it was so different to Mexico. There were no hotels per se, more that it was either all expenses paid resorts or casas particulares. The standard of accommodation was like a bit of a grubby B&B in the UK. Not unclean, far from it, but just old and there is no money to pay for restoration and fancy stuff. It was all just very functional. You wouldn't go in and have a wee lie down on your bed and read your book. But you could see how grand it must have been in its day - and how grand it would be had the US not placed trade embargos between Cuba and as much of the rest of the world as possible.

Our host - Ernesto - was charming. He spoke only Spanish - thank god for Jules! He directed us to the old square - Plaza Vieja, a World Heritage Site - where we could get some food and a beer. It was pretty late by this time and we were all tired and hungry from our journey. So, imagine our delight when we got to the square only to be met by the most delicious barbeque smell. Ah...

Some beers please, and a few chicken and prawn skewers. And they arrived - it was a sign...Amanda was happy with her prawns, Mark could (and did) eat anything. Jules and I however, were not so lucky. The chicken looked like a wee row of baby chickens - fatty baby chickens. What, no lovely clean chicken breast? Nope, no chips, no salad. It was a laugh...we were all that giddy way. Also, we were afraid to offend, you know, better eat it, this country doesn't do waste - but I couldn't do it. Sorry Cuba...still, the beer was good.

Thankfully, we could eat breakfast with our hosts - we could eat dinner too, but we'd wanted to get out and about. Breakfast was nice. It consisted of fresh fruit, coffee, bread and Omelette. Lovely, except that that's what we had every day for three weeks - it really was the best meal of the day - sometimes it was the only meal of the day!

Anyway, wandering about Havana was just fantastic. Parts of it were quite touristy. No American tourists though (or very few). US Citizens are not allowed to travel to Cuba as part of the trade embargo. There were many Italians and Germans. However, many parts of Havana were not touristy at all. Plus, it made no difference to the locals. All were welcoming, everyone had a word to say...'where you from?...' was always an opener for conversation. Amanda's response was always followed by her asking where they were from - Cuba, of course. These were fiercely proud people. Proud of their country, proud of their ability to stand against the US, proud of almost everything. Well, that was mostly our experience, we came across some adversity, but not much...

You know that way where you see photos of Cuba and there are the old ladies dressed up in all their garb, smoking big massive cigars and then all the guys with their fancy suits on, walking about. Then all the photos with the big double basses being carried along the street by very cool looking dudes and guitarists playing in the middle of the street? Well, its all true, musicians move from place to place all day long, playing, busking, singing.

We found a place to eat this night - Bar Hanoi - the food was fine, mind you, when all you'd eaten in a couple of days was egg, egg and egg, almost anything was good! I gave a set of guitar strings to the guitarist and he was so delighted - 'it is life' he told me and was so grateful for those strings. I couldn't understand why since we had seen strings that day in a music shop and they were only about $4...it was only later that I discovered that a Cuban earns between $8-$13 PER MONTH. Of course it is all relative, but you can see why there is no waste and money is spent only on essentials - like life.

This same night we also went to our wee local bar. This was a no-nonsense bar, filled with Cubans and the music was pumping out. We were made so welcome. Everyone was saying hello and smiling over - even the cucaracha. Ugh! Now I know it is irrational, but I have a horrible fear of cockroaches. I think the fear is worse than the reality, however, when we sat down, there was a wee cockroach sitting with us...I used it as therapy 'I can beat this, I can do it' but I gotta tell you, I was so happy that the beer was not so good cos I used it as an excuse not to go back there again!

Next day, we got in our first big taxi...the driver was about 150, looked like he had just stepped off the movie set of the Buena Vista social club, the car was an original 1950's Chevrolet. My god, the driver was smoking the biggest cigar ever - between that and the exhaust, it is little wonder that we found breathing in Havana difficult. No surprise that Cuba has an amazingly high rate of respiratory disease. This, as with almost every day, was a day bathed in the history of the revolution. Off to the big plaza that we sometimes see on the telly with Fidel talking to over a million people; it was vast.

We walked through the most amazing streets. People dancing, singing, playing music...all saying hello and stopping to look at the tourists...smiling. Mind you, a lady stopped us and told us to hide all of our valuables. Its weird because, not once did I feel threatened in Cuba, not personally, nor about having stuff taken. But some of the locals had obviously targeted tourists in the past and other locals were warning us off.

This night we happened along the streets - of course, no street lights, so the streets were in total darkness. We came across a wedding. This particular wedding was just beautiful. Girls there can marry very young - maybe 15 or 16. And so, this night was the most beautiful bride in an open top car, with TEN cocotaxis (a wee coconut-shaped scooter, customised to take two passengers in the back) behind with a bridesmaid and usher in each. It was incredibly grand and we just watched the procession as the bride got out of her car and each of the cocotaxis deposited its personnel to walk along the red carpet to the reception. It was beautiful. A big crowd of passers-by had stood to watch, they were all shouting their luck and clapping and stuff - just lovely.

We also had our first official night out salsa dancing. Hotel Pico Blanco - a rooftop dancing terrace - in Havana. Where there was singing to start and the host asked if there was anyone in from anywhere - except Scotland! Don't worry, in about 0.5 seconds, we made our presence felt. And we danced...I'm sure you know that I am not the best dancer in the world, however, when I was in Cuba, I was the Ginger to anyone's Fred!

This was a state-run hotel and was very strange. In order for us to get to the roof, we had to first show our passports, give our home addresses (in Scotland) and tell the name of our Casa Particular in Cuba. All very stringent. I guess there is always the imminent threat to the government. However, it was the only time that there was a security presence felt. The police presence we saw, rarely wore guns and just stood on street corners, moving slightly to the sound of whatever music happened to be blaring out of wherever.

Next day was hogmanay and you could really feel the party atmosphere beginning to build. Not only were women running around with their hair in rollers (although this was generally commonplace), there was also a cooking frenzy going on.

Our host, Ernesto, invited us to join him and his family for dinner through midnight. Well, this was going to be interesting. Not least of all because the speciality/luxury item on any Cuban's menu is...PIG. Well, I prefer not to eat dead pig, so I could just avoid it without offending my host. Right? Wrong!

There was no avoiding this pig...nope, especially since it was lying dead outside the bathroom (right next to the kitchen) door for most of the morning, and especially through breakfast! No probs though, cos soon it would be on the barbeque. Ernesto took great pride in telling Jules how he was going to gut the pig and then cook it (the whole thing) all day long. How glad was I that my Spanish was not good.

We went out that day and did great stuff, went to a wee island off Havana. People running around having so much fun, kids bathing in the water right next to the power station...eh? Yep, kids bathing in the water right next to the power station. God knows what the health and environmental implications of this might be. I have photographs, amazing shots of roads that look like they are in a primitive third world country and then at the end of the road, where you'd expect a horizon of open fields to be, were these big power furnaces. Right at the edge of people's streets. It looked so threatening, so futuristic, but again, everyone was just smiling, happy to be alive, happy to be in Cuba.

Something I haven't mentioned was how difficult it was to find snacks - not a problem if you were eating regularly, good food at night - however, we weren't! There were few chances to stop off at a wee shop and buy a sandwich or a packet of crisps, or even a wee bottle of water not because we were skint, but because, there were no wee places to do this. There were no wee shops. One of the big 'department store' type places we came across was incredible. There were big display cabinets and on one shelf there would be deodorant for sale and in the next, inner tubes for tyres and then taps for sinks. Weird. Occasionally people would open their houses - Paladares - and sell pizza slices or pieces of cake or lighter fuel or whatever. To buy from these you needed Cuban Currency, as opposed to $$$. We got this and managed to find a wee house where the lady was selling lovely hot pieces of pizza - not only was it bloody magic! it was only about 70p each.

That night, we went back to Hanoi for food...that way we would have eaten and could avoid the pig. We needn't have worried though, because, when we got back to the house Ernesto, Juanita (his wife) and all his family were there and had made a feast fit for kings - including rice and salad and bread. These people are so generous. They seem to have so little, but everything they do have is for sharing. Mind you, when we did get back, Ernesto's son Nigi took great delight in showing us the pig face down, legs akimbo, roasting in the BBQ. That was before my brother Mark presented them with his malt whisky and 'see you Jimmy' hat. Which Nigi promptly put on and practiced really hard to say see you Jimmy, it came out 'see you hhhimi'. Very good fun...after dinner, we sat up on the roof and just listened to the party that Havana had become - it was a spectacular new year. Once again, I find myself blessed with humongous good fortune and love - lucky to be part of the travelling foursome and lucky to have all my family and friends around me in spirit.

So, new year's day...things will be a little quite and chilled. NOT. People were still partying in the street, going mental.

I took my hangover and went for a wander through more of Havana. Honestly, it is impossible to impress upon anyone who hasn't seen it, what a vibrant place this is, how open and warm people are, how constant the music is.

We went in search of food and didn't find any, however, on route, there was this big street party going on. About 60 people dancing in the street outside their houses. Most ground floor houses opened onto the street anyway, so it was like dancing in their front room. I lost Mark, Jules and Mand, but when I finally found them, they were dancing their socks off in the middle of this impromptu do! It was a laugh.


TRINIDAD January 2nd - 6th

Okay, so there was a bus this day going from Hav-Trin...seats booked...yes, no, yes, Nope, definitely no! And that was it, our plan was up in the air. However, when our hosts Juanita and Ernesto found out about this, they spend three hours on the phone, trying to get us a taxi. Finally, it was going to be okay...we had our ride. That's how it seems to be in Cuba...everything will get done, just not now and just not in the fashion you might have though possible. Remember in Mexico, everything was so functional...not here!

So, we were off, along this long empty barren road to Trinidad. It was as though the tarmac was laid over the most direct distance to Trinidad...nothing to report. No wee villages or people moving around - that was to come later!

We had booked our accommodation in Trinidad well in advance of arriving in Cuba, so we knew where to go - Rogelio's house. Yep, everyone knew where it was and when we got there, there was a Canadian family standing outside 'waiting' for Rogelio. 'Yeah, he said he'd be here between 2 and 3. Some people have come along and said their his cousin and stuff, but we're staying put till we see Rogelio'. We were shouting through the open window and stuff, 'Rogelio, Rogelio...' at which point a neighbour came out and said he could get us another place. So, just round the corner, we found a great wee place...Belkis's Casa. This was a great wee room and our hosts were amazing. Thankfully, they were great cooks too - at last, we could eat...and eat...and eat...! They made so much stuff.

This was a good thing because on day one in Trinidad we went for salads and stuff and Amanda, who'd asked for a tomato salad was given a plate of tomatoes - this was not the only time this happened! Also, in our evening quest of sampling the town, we decided to eat out and ended up in eating in yet another 'interesting' place! I think it was fish...the chips however, were thinly sliced, deep fried bananas. The salad? Green Beans!

I think Trinidad was my favourite place though, mainly because of the people we met. Belkis and her family were amazing. As was their home. We also did some amazing stuff there...

On day one, we sussed the place out - fishing trips, beaches and stuff...well I should say, our interpreter Jules did all the sussing. As with Mexico, she made our trip so relaxed. The beaches were amazing...we walked along this bay which was completely deserted and covered with the whitest sand meeting the bluest water...breathtaking. Mark was fly fishing with some of the locals who had never tried it before - I only realised this when the guy cast off to his side, the hook ready to take me into the ocean with it!

We tried to get some lunch - it was...slow. I think we waited about two hours for lunch, with the we guy running around. Eventually, when he did bring lunch, he apologised for the delay...he had to cook it himself. Meanwhile, the other guy who 'worked' there was standing having a cigarette - well, we laughed and laughed and laughed.

At night, after a fantastic dinner at Belkis's (thank you god!). We went for a wee walk down our street. Nothing too much, just a wee beer...that bar there looks authentic enough, bright, only a few people in there. In we went, quiet beer, lovely bar staff (Osmillo, who 'loved' me and Vicky-pronounced Bicky - the most beautiful woman who just smiled and reminded me of my mum). Then we did our Scotland thing - you know...'Escossia'. Then all went crazy - in the best possible way. It was a tiny wee place...three or four tables, next thing you know, Bicky had us all up salsa-ing. The Salsa teacher in the corner who just happened to be there, danced with us all. Bicky fell in love with Mark and wouldn't let us all sit down, for hours - it was a special night...all singing...all dancing...all laughing...and totally impromptu. Eventually, we bid our farewells and vowed to go back the next night so that we could go to The Casa de la Trova for more dancing.

By the way, when I say the stuff about the cooking and the attitude of the Cubans, please don't think I am complaining. Far from it. I'm just trying to illustrate the way it is in Cuba - well our experience anyway. They have little, but what they have they make the best of. The get things done, its just that it happens...whenever...Jules kept saying 'esto es Cuba' (spelling?)...That's Cuba...just the laid back, chilled out way of life.

It became apparent to us that Cuban's have realised over the years that there is no point getting irate or angry about stuff - shortages, poor wages - That's Cuba. We were told many times that, although people have very little, they are happy, they get on with it. That's when we were trying to get into political talk - one of my most favourite subjects. However, it became clear that people were not happy to discuss politics...with anyone!

We found out from a wee guy in Trinidad why...to discuss politics, Fidel or the communist ways of Cuba in what could be construed as a negative way, could mean four year's imprisonment! This particular wee guy was very keen to tell us of his unhappiness with the Cuban way. He wanted to travel, he wanted to see his family in Miami but he couldn't leave the country.

It is worth noting here that many people have left Cuba for the US, many people still want to, but many people don't. Some of those who don't are people who have had a wee taster of what life is like in other places. For example, on of the Buena Vista Social Club stars said that he could never leave Cuba, the same with multi-million dollar baseball stars taken from Cuba to the US. When their contracts expire, they chose to return to Cuba. I guess that there are going to be many sides to this coin.

Anyway...blah...blah...blah...onto more GREAT things we did in Trinidad. (maybe you should get some more coffee - I just did!)

Next day took us to Topes do Collantes - a massive big mountain walk with the Salto Del Caburni falls at the bottom. It was quite a way out of Trinidad and the taxista let us off at the top of the mountain so that we could climb the Miramar and see all the way back to Trinidad - apparently on a clear day you could see Jamaica...well, it was pretty clear that day and I couldn't see Jamaica.

Anyway, it was a good hard walk, amazing scenery, frozen waterfalls Amanda FORCED me to swim in and, as ever, with the travelling foursome, lots of laughter. When we finally got home we discovered a SUPERMARKET. It was then we realised the reason for the word 'super' in market...Mark, Jules and Mand came back with loadsa crisps and snacks and biscuits and lots of stuff we didn't even like but just got because we could! Just imagine, no more omelette sandwiches for lunch...

We were all pretty tired that night so we'd resolved to go and let Bicky know that we wouldn't be going dancing that night. When we got to the bar, we were a little relieved to see that she wasn't there. We sat for a beer and three minutes later, she came into the bar with the biggest smile ever, her daughter, Suzanne and her niece and gifts for each of us - honestly, she was probably on of the people in the village who had so little, but to us, and to all around, she gave so much. There was no way we weren't going dancing with this beautiful woman.

And dance we did...again, I was Ginger. Amanda was dancing her feet off and Mark and Jules were around the floor as fast as anything. There were some incredible dancers there. The girls were showing us how to do it properly. And that's the beauty of it...all welcome. It doesn't matter if you have two left feet, or if you want to just listen to the amazing live music, just come along and smile! And the music was amazing...there were about five different acts on. Some played solo and some bands, either way, all ended up playing with each other. The standard of musicianship, as with all of Cuba, was outstanding.

I don't think I've mentioned the animal life yet, have I? Well, loadsa dogs and cats, cockroaches and eagles...just flying around... Well, one day, in Havana actually, we were trying to cross the road, but couldn't because of three dogs having a ménage a trios!!!! We were trying to cross. A taxi was trying to pass and was honking his horn. Meanwhile all the kids around were screaming at the taxista not to run over the dogs - it was hilarious. The taxi driver summed it up - 'this is Cuban love' he shouted to us!

So, anyway, next day in Trinidad...this was a particularly tough day - remember Mexico, where we took a wee tiny boat out into the ocean for hours and saw hundreds of dolphins and stuff? Well, this was the same type of day!

We were trying to get a fishing boat for Mark and some snorkelling for us. Mark could have one boat and we could go on the other boat with all the tourists. (Being a tourists myself I am not particularly adverse to tourists, but I'd much rather the travelling foursome shared with Cubans!). So, Jules, being so brill in Spanish, worked out that the guy was suggesting that Mark's boat, given that it was so expensive, could just take the four of us and we could get snorkelling gear for us. We'd have lunch on the boat and, instead of a four hour trip, we'd get a seven hour trip - well, does that not sound like a better deal? We just weren't aware of how much better the deal was!

We got to the pier. Our BIG boat was having some maintenance done - in other words, it had broken down and they were trying to fix it - hmmm! Then we were hearded to the edge of the pier where all the tourists were sitting. Their schooners were fully equipped with sails and lifejackets...our wee boat chugged along to pick us up.

Then we were off, out to the Caribbean Sea (the name of one of my first bands!).

Mark was like a wee boy, smiling and fishing. I was up on the top deck with Jules and Mand reading and watching the ocean - looking for dolphins actually! I saw ONE!! Then all of a sudden, there was all this commotion down on the lower deck. Mark had caught a big massive fish. I ran down just in time to see the captain spear that barracuda with his big hook then his it three times on the head with his 'priest'. If ever there was a time I felt sea-sick, this was it - AND it was nothing to do with the sea! Mark caught two more fish, each one bigger than the last. I didn't go down to see all the commotion - all I heard was lots of commotion, three big thuds then Jules saying 'Mark, Mark' asking him to pose for the camera, with his finger stuck up the fish's gills - ugh! Three fish - between 2.5 and 4.5 feet long were left at the bottom of the ladder so that when I came down stairs I had the pleasure of looking them in the (dead) eye!

After that, the other guy on the boat went fishing for lobster - this was spectacular. He dived off the boat, with Amanda and Mark on tow, dived down under the surface for ages, then re-appeared with lobster. Mark and Mand swam back to the boat carrying loads of the stuff. Again, and again and again. It was amazing. The lobster they caught was basically our lunch. Of course this made me feel even worse, because I'm not really a seafood fan. Our captain was decapitating the lobster, chucking their heads back into the ocean on one side of the boat, I was feeling gradually sicker and when I turned to the other side of the boat to escape, there were those three fish all staring right at me! Argh...it was like something from and X-rated Finding Nemo. Of course it was a laugh too. The rest of the foursome were all asking if I was okay and having a real laugh at my woos-ness.

Then our crew told us that we would eat 'over there' - pointing to a wee sandbank in the middle of the sea. But before that we were going to Iguana island...

We got to the island, the big boat at the jetty that looked like something from Waterworld, got their wee boat to take us ashore. Now this was the bounty advert...totally deserted island. The wee jetty taking you from the white sand out to the blue blue sea, the pelicans diving into the ocean, the perfect starfish in the water, the wee cabana on the beach, the crabs running around, the 'tree rats' and the iguanas running around like packs of dogs...excuse me?

Yep, the iguanas running around like packs of dogs. This was amazing. All these lizards running around, eating lemon and limes out of your hand - honestly, dozens of them, all sizes, just running around wild. Wee tree rats that looked like possums or something. It was totally bizarre.

Meanwhile, our crew were cooking the lobster on the boat, using all sorts of cooking ingredients they had traded from the big boat. It was the same with our snorkelling gear. We had none to start with, then we stopped near a tourist boat where some trading went on...we'll give you snorkelling gear for four if you take these tourists out to the other reef...That's how it worked. When we finally tore ourselves away from the island, the one with the wild iguanas on it (is it just me or is that not amazing!?!?!?!) we got back to the boat to discover that one of the barracuda had been traded, no doubt for the cooking stuff and the rice and tomatoes. Lucky Mark caught some fish or I wouldn't have been eating lunch that day. Mand, Mark and Jules were all eating these MASSIVE lobster and, although I did try some - it was their catch, after all - I stuck to the rice and tomato.

We did a bit of snorkelling in that big massive ocean. Amanda and Mark, and to a lesser extent, Jules are like water babies. I am too, but I get a wee bit scared of the big ocean. They were away snorkelling at all of these reefs and places. I tried a wee bit off the boat and loved it, but when I looked up, I had drifted further from the boat than I had thought. A wee feartie indeed, but I did try it. I am sure that I try the patience of my travelling companions, what with my cockroach AND my ocean problem! Anyway, they'd never let me know..and we had the most amazing day on the Caribbean Sea...

That night we had a great chat with Belkis after dinner...it was then that she told us that on day one, when we were looking for Rogelio - he was lying drunk inside his house having partied all through new year! We were all hysterical.

Next day was equally amazing. Ever tried horse riding? Nah, me neither and not over rough terrain for 7 hours!

My horse was Marguerita and our guide was Carlos - another potential husband for me. This was an amazing day...it was hard work, but just incredible. I honestly haven't done horse riding except for once or twice, but I loved this. We were going over really rough terrain and through deep rivers, it really was just like being in a western movie! On the way out of town, we passed through amazing houses - obviously the less affluent part of town. Everyone was at their front door watching Carlos with the tourists! 'Buenas Dias'. I think that everyone, without fail, was waving and saying hello.

We rode through all the sugar cane, saw the most amazing sights and wee villages. When we finally got off for lunch, we went for a long walk to some great waterfalls. Although, this took us some time - mainly because we went in a big circle and ended up where we started! Bunch of numpties. Then every time we asked people how far to the falls, the bog standard reply was '10 minutes'...eh, I don't think so...

But, we got there, swam and had an omelette sandwich - AGAIN!

When we were heading back to the horses, it was difficult to walk properly. THEN, we had to get back on the horses for another two hours - Ouch! What a laugh though, Carlos must have been so bored and then beside himself with joy when the beginners managed to get up to a cantor. In my diary I have written - 'a long, sore day - but not long enough'! Gluten for punishment or what?

When we finally got back, we were all wobbling home and our hosts Belkis and her family, were laughing hysterically at us.

It was sad to leave here. On that last night, we gave gifts to Belkis and her family and to Bicky...when I say gifts, I mean a bag of toiletries and pens and calculators and stuff. Then we were off to say farewell to Bicky. Again, she had brought us all gifts - lace placemats and stuff. Just so warm and thoughtful. Mark gave Osmillo his Scotland T-shirt and Osmillo gave me his lighter. It all sounds so minimal, but remember, these people had so little for themselves, including lighters, that to give them away was momentous.

And so, on the next day, the third leg of our journey began...


SANTIAGO de CUBA January 7th - 11th 

A big long bus journey took us to our next destination. The third big centre on the South of Cuba. This journey was quite different to our big barren road from Havana to Trinidad. This road took us through some amazing towns and villages through the centre of Cuba. Porches full of people reading. Cuban flags flying over schools. Derelict looking buildings that were full of people. This is where the revolution began and was fostered for some years...

Sto de Cuba was a place full of hustlers - we found out later why...but for now...

We got there and met with Belkis's friend Carridad. She and her husband took us to her place in a big cab. Mark and Jules were staying with Carridad, Mand and I were staying round the corner with Gloria. Gloria was a professor and a librarian, the room she let out was a bit of a dungeon, with a cock crowing and dogs barking most of the night. She herself was a wee angel. She had some help in her house. The most beautiful black woman who stood at the sink during breakfast dancing to whatever music she happened to hear.

Anyway, I am jumping the gun again...

We got to Sto de Cuba late at night and went in search of food - you guessed it, we found nothing! We had eaten a sandwich in the day though - that coupled with the snacks that Mark and Jules had brought from Scotland meant that we were only moderately hungry as opposed to pure starving! However, we sat in the Plazza Delores. We had been warned by our hosts not to take anything out with us, no cameras, no bags, NADA. Everyone seemed a wee bit paranoid. Mind you, in a wee commotion that ensued, I lost my purse. I don't know if it was taken on purpose, or if someone saw it lying under my seat and just took it. However, we survived!

Back to Gloria's dungeon where I 'enjoyed' the sight of my first indoors cockroach - hmmm!

Next day, we spent most of the morning trying to get money from the bank, but the phone lines were down. Then to rent a car, or get on a tour, or find a bus, or book a flight to our next destination. Whatever we tried, it just wasn't happening. It was here that I felt for Jules, she was run ragged trying to organise things in Spanish for the folk at the car place and then tell us in English what was going on...when we went next door to try to book a flight back to Havana, the phone lines were down so we couldn't book - Esto es Cuba!

In the end we couldn't get a car, but when we went to their place to discuss options, Carridad had already spoken to loads of her pals to find out what was our best option. Mind you, so had Gloria! These people couldn't do enough for you. We just threw in the towel and went for a coffee to the big tourist hotel at the main square - the one which looks onto the balcony that Fidel Castro gave his first speech from.

It was in this hotel we first noticed the vast amount of 'sex-tourism'...Many non-Cuban men, and a couple of women, with very young dates who never spoke a word to each other. I don't know if the young girls were looking for money or passports, but it was hard to watch. Then you think, why would these women not do this, when you consider they probably earn in a night what their fathers and mothers could earn in three months - acht, its heartbreaking - all of it.

This evening, before we went out, we had had so many tea-time mojitos that we all wanted a wee snooze. That was fine, but when Mark & Jules came to take us to look at another casa, away from Gloria's dungeon, Mark was shouting in for us through the shutters I tried the door, but realised Gloria had gone out and left us - LOCKED IN, there was no way out...it really was a dungeon! Well what a laugh. We eventually got out and went to book another casa - Alejandro's roof top room - magic.

However, we still had the adventure of dinner this night. We didn't want to eat in our own casas because it meant that we couldn't eat together. This evening was by far the most eventful evening of food in Cuba...

Jules came to our place all read up on the 'posh' restaurant in the lonely planet guide. And we were off...I don't remember the name of the restaurant - selective memory I think! But when we got there, the guy took us through the most decorative colonial hallway to the roof terrace. There was amazing live music - two women on guitar and vocals - the waiters were all dressed up and brought the menu. There wasn't much on it really, however, we ordered the fish with salad and chips and stuff. It did say in the LP that it was good!

And, it was not good - not by any stretch of the imagination - it was not even bad - nope it was horrid. Bear in mind that I had not had a proper meal since we left Belkis's.

Well, the fish arrived. It looked as though it had been battered & deep fried while still alive. the poor wee thing was all curved, and, just for my absolute pleasure and delight the head and tail were still on! Honestly, Jules and I just laughed - I think we were delirious. Mark and Amanda did try to eat theirs but to no avail. They too ended up in hysterics! However, all was not lost, I thought about the chips...they would have to do...once again some bananas deep fried. And then, when Mark asked for a napkin the waiter disappeared, only to return seconds later with some squares of toilet roll for us all. We were in bits...

Its no wonder I had so many hangovers on this trip, I had had no food to soak up the mojitos!

All of our laughing attracted this guy at the next table. He was sitting with three friends. For some reason he came right over and started to talk to all of us in that Cuban way...again just lovely people. He shook all of our hands then took my hand and leaned forward and attempted to stick his tongue down my throat - argh...please, no, I said. Mark actually stepped in and said, this is my sister, she has a husband and two children back in Scotland. The guy looked and basically said, yeah, I have two children also and this is my wife! Can you believe it'? He introduced me to his wife after going in for the tongue kill! The night just got better and better...

So, hungry (for food) and salsa we moved on to dance in the salsa capital of the world. It was great, I saw some amazing dancers, just beautiful. There are many tourists who come to Sto de Cuba on salsa trips, this must be amazing. We were in a bit of a touristy bar but them moved on to this wee tiny place called La Cosina. We met some amazing people, Delores, a wonderful singer. Some guys danced with Mand and I. Then at the end of the night, these two guys tried to get us to pay them for the dance! Can you believe it? They were trying to negotiate with Mark for drinks and money for the musicians and money for the dance. It was too much and such a shame, because they were just hustling, it left a wee tiny bad taste...

Anyway, next day, after Gloria gave us the remainder of our previous day's breakfast (!) we were off to drop our bags at our new place and go for a drive with Jorge along the coast road at the foot of the Sierra Maestra to Pico Turquino, the highest peak in Cuba.

It is impossible to recount this day so I will just list some of the stuff we saw. First of all, the wee town and villages we saw have their own customs etc, they only get by by trading with neighbouring villages and passers-by - no money, just crops and stuff. The roads are horrific. Occasionally you can be driving along and the road just disappears for a while. Our driver deserved a medal.

Amazing rugged mountains. Lots of forestry. Guys selling oranges by the side of the road. Then on the other side some amazing cliffs dropping into clear blue water. White sands stretching for miles. families of four riding along on a horse - one horse! Fathers with their daughters on his bike - one on the handlebars and one on the back. Baseball games. Pigs running along the middle of the roads. Folk just riding along on horseback. One guy with his wife holding her brand new baby in her arms (we saw this family as we headed out on our journey and again on the way back...6 hours later, they still hadn't made it to their destination). Women with mad rollers in their hair. One woman with her rollers in, bare feet and a machete in her waistband. Lots of revolutionary signs and graffiti hailing the work of Che and Fidel etc. Families enjoying the holiday at the state run resort. Families living in huts on the beach. I have an amazing photograph of me sitting watching a baseball match in amongst all of the locals - I don't think the photo is particularly amazing, its just that the memory is. We swam at a wee beach at teatime. Mark fished! Nude swimming is a no, no in Cuba - Mand tried it, only to be caught out by Jorge who came down to the water's edge. Not only that, but Jorge, who had never seen the mountain was delighted at the thought of seeing Pico Torquino which, by some amazing twist of fate, was in full view when we got there. It really was a spectacular day...6 hours in a car and no-one wanted it to end.

We still didn't manage to get any food though - by this time I was getting really hungry.

Mark and Jules came round to sample a beer on our new terrace. Jules, as ever equipped with her LP guide said that there were a few places we could try for authentic Cuban food - 'or', she said probing 'there's this big touristy hotel that is supposed to do some amazing pizza'. I have never felt so complete in all my life - at last - I was going to eat! PIZZA v AUTHENTIC Cuban food - I am sure you are in no doubt as to what won!

We tripped the light fantastic quick smart up to that posh hotel. And boy, did we eat pizza. The service was all over the place because of something or other, but I couldn't hear what they were saying to me...all I could hear was myself salivating over the thought of some tasty food - and tasty it was. The downside of this hotel was the same as the other big one - every table you saw was occupied by a big old guy and wee young girl, not talking to each other.

The next day we were off in an old Chevy with Raul up to the mountains to see the chapel of the Virgen De Cobre. Again, it was a great drive, we went through the not-so-posh side of town and saw some great things as well as a generous helping of great music. After this, we took a great long walk down to the plaza de la revolution, again, saw lots of places extolling the virtues of the revolution. Then we happened back up to Plz Delores (remember the one where I lost my purse?)

Here we met a great guy - Angel - one who was desperate to talk about Fidel and the difficulties in Cuba and how when Fidel dies, Cuba will see the worst ever violence, due to warring factions in government. It was great to talk with this guy. He was very young and wanted to leave Cuba but the government wouldn't give him a visa because they know that he wouldn't come back. It was he who told us about the average wage for Cubans. We bought them some beers and spoke to them for ages. It was very revealing and a bit sad.

This night, we went salsa dancing to Casa de La Tradiciones. It was amazing. The dance floor was really just the wee tiny area in front of the band; the band were incredible. And, for the first time in my life, I saw money being exchanged for women. It was amazing, blatant and my jaw was at my knees. 2 Aggressive German guys, Cuban pimp, enter three young girls, money passes over and bam! Deal done - right in front of my very eyes. It was amazing, I have never seen this done so openly before. Amazing.

But not as amazing as the dancing. Amanda came back from the dance floor and told us that we each had to dance with this guy - Omar. We went in search of him - a small, coal-black, grey haired guy - and wow! Amanda wasn't kidding, he was amazing. I felt more like Cyd Charrisse. We danced and drank the strongest mojitos ever. This wasn't touristy, this was just a dance place full of tourists who wanted to get off the beaten track...it was a fabulous night.

Next day, I felt the mojitos loud and clear - banging in my head. And what do you think they wanted to do today? Our last day? Climb a big bloody mountain! Well, hangover or not, I wasn't missing anything. Off we went on our merry way. Up to a big rock from where you could see Guantanamo Bay. On the way, we went to Granjita Siboney. The wee house where Fidel had hatched his first plan for a revolution. On July 26th, 1953. It failed, but when he was exiled to Mexico, he met up with Che - the rest is history I guess.

After the climb up to the big rock, we were all getting a bit hungry - in my case, the mojito munchies - and Amanda piped up 'I could really go some of that pizza again'. Well, we were off, there was no stopping us. Back to the big sex-tourist hotel and the most amazing pizza. The last meal we were to have with Mark and Jules in Cuba! But, before we parted company, we bumped into Angel again - totally by coincidence. It was lucky that we did because he took us to get all the stuff we needed before we left Sto de Cuba.

He found film and batteries for the cameras and he took us to a girls house where we could buy some music. Now this was a laugh. Jules has allergies when it comes to animals. So, in we go to this wee house - a hallway basically. Angel was so eager for us to be comfortable and sat us all down. Jules hesitated but was forced to be polite and sit on the couch covered with mozzies, dog hairs and god knows what else, only to discover that under her feet was a wee dog licking at her ankles. I have never seen 5 CDs bought more quickly. Mind you, I don't think she could see through the curtain to notice the pig chained up to the sink!

We were all back off to Havana. From there M&J were flying home. Mand and I were flying to La Isla de la Juventud for our last few days.

Mand and I took an overnight bus - remember we couldn't book a flight because the phone lines were down. The overnight bus back to Havana took fifteen hours and it was the best sleep we had on the whole trip!

When we got back to the bus station in Havana, we had a few hours to kill before our flight to La Isla so we tried to get a taxi to take us to a few places we wanted to go. This was our first experience without Jules to interpret - hmmm!

We tried to ask a taxista who was then 'helped' by an Turkish guy who offered to interpret. It seemed that a 1 hour taxi ride was going to cost us $50! Eh? we said, No way...of course, eventually it turned out to be $15 dollars. I think we might have managed better without the Turkish guy!

Anyway, we got to see some places that Amanda really wanted to see. Parque Lenin with a massive monument to Lenin and to Celia Sanchez, one of Fidel's right hand men. Then to Santiago de las Vegas to look at the church that people crawl along the ground to get to.

It was a whirlwind tour of these places and a nice thing about it was that our taxi driver had never been to these places before, so he was delighted to get a chance to see them. Even though he did miss the turn-off from the motorway, stopped and reversed to get back to the proper one!

Anyway, then off to La Isla de la Juventud


La Isla de la Juventud January 12th-15th 

And, so to the last leg of our journey.

We got to la Isla on a battered and bruised plane. The flight attendant didn't give us any safety procedures...! And then we were in a different place again. So green and lush.

We had booked a casa here and, just before we set off, some guy approached us with a card. 'No', I said ' we have a room' in Spanish which probably came out something like, your sister is a frog. But anyway, off we went, through this lovely wee green island through a nice we town, into what looked a little like Beirut! Oh no, this wasn't how we had wanted to spend the last few days of our trip. NO-O-O-O-O-O-O.

Then, when we got to the place we had booked, the guy said, no room at the in! 'But we booked yesterday' we said, but nope, he couldn't remember. He took us to another place. And, as it turned out, it was the casa of the wee guy who'd given me his card at the airport.

Pablito and Lizzie. This island used to be inhabited by English people hence the many English names we came across. This was not the kind of room we were looking for for our last couple of nights, however, our hosts were amazing. When we explained that we would prefer our own bathroom, they were great and showed another place across the street that we would move into tomorrow. No bother. These people could not have done more for us. All of the people we met on La Isla were even more friendly than those we met throughout Cuba.

The beaches here were amazing too. We rented bikes from Lizzie and cycled to the furthest away beach, only because the first wee paradise was so busy, well, there was one guy and a horse there!

The second beach was great too. We cycled along to the end and went into a place - probably an office or house looking for some water. All of the people there - one of whom was called Wilma - came out to look at us and to try to talk to us. Amanda was great with her Spanish. I tried.

We cycled again, after being caught in an amazing rainstorm. The people here were just brill. Everyone approached us to say hello or to look at us, or whatever. On the way home to our new house - Casa Cuqui - we went to drop off the bikes to Lizzie and Pablito. 'I would like to make you a gift...I would like you to drink a mojito with me'. And, so began our one of many. We had such a long chat. These people were lovely. Lizzie's pal Angela came to visit. She is a masseuse and Amanda was gone...She had a full body massage in the middle of Cuba!

After that, she was very chilled and came back to our apartment very chilled. Our host invited us to play dominoes with him and his wife. It was a laugh. We played dominoes for hours. We were having so much fun, until I made the mistake of winning! Cuqui was laughing hysterically, Eugene was absolutely raging...so much so that he never spoke to us for the rest of our time there! What a laugh; sore loser or what!

There was a tumultuous rain storm on La Isla when we were there - 'the first rain in two months'. We were caught in it for a wee while, till we found a place for shelter. It was a closed bar - Casa de los Vinos. However, when we arrived under the porch to shelter, someone came and opened up the bar for us. We were given a mug of wine and invited to sit and watch the rain. We just sat and watched it, helpless to do anything else. Occasionally we saw people pass. One guy came along the road with his shoes on and when faced with a big rain puddle that he just couldn't avoid, he took his shoes off and walked through the puddle!

Finally when the rain did go off, we prepared to go out for the night. Of course, that consisted of us going via Lizzie and Pablito's for another mojito. It was especially nice this time because there was an Argentinean couple staying with them. They joined us in mojitos and we danced for ages. Then, we went off into town for more dancing. This was mental...

We were dodging all the puddles, not easy when there are no street lights, were passing this place where music was belting out from. Off we went, only to find ourselves back in time at some fifties disco/dance thing. There were people singing to backing tapes and other people up dancing. It was like a cabaret night. As with every place, we got boyfriends. Not because we were gorgeous, but because we weren't local. Amanda's finally got angry with her when we decided to leave and my guy had a footballer's haircut and a white suit! It was surreal. Again though, generous people, all buying us drinks and making sure that we were okay.

We finally escaped that place and went for a walk along the main street. Now this was something. We had gone along this street by day and found it very vibrant. Some shops and stuff - don't get excited though, they were only selling books, deodorant and tyres. Here on a Friday night, it was as though we had just walked into a night club. An open air night club in the street. It was amazing. All the young folk were just too cool, but my god, could they move. Music was pumping out from somewhere, folk were dancing, strutting and posing. Street vendors were selling drinks on street corners - it was totally amazing. Then, Amanda and I realised the extent of our fame on La Isla. A lovely man approached us. 'which one of you is Carol and which is Amanda?' - eh? Too weird! It turned out he had been talking to his friend the night before who turned out to be one of the locals we had met at the airport. That's just so how it was in Cuba and particularly on La Isla.

This guy was David and he invited us to his birthday party the next night...

Next day, it was breakfast at Lizzie's - smashin'. Again we hired her bikes and then went out the Presido Modelo - the circular prison where Fidel was held, along with all the revolutionaries of 26th July. It was quite a trip, because, we actually saw the bed he slept in. The whole complex was quite amazing...very eerie.

After our last day on the beach, we cycled back to see if we could find David's house for the party later. We got to the end of the road - back into Beirut - and heard the thump of music coming from somewhere. Next thing, two lovely wee girls were running up to us shouting 'are you Carol? are you Amanda?'. They had been put on look-out by david who wanted us to know that he had gone out but would be back very soon. We were invited to his house to wait. It was amazing. A wee corridor, like a back court lane was what his front door opened out onto. We went there and partied later on. The two wee girls - who were beautiful. Were amazing dancers and movers - so was everyone at the party - well, that was until me. but it was fine, nobody minded.

Before we went out though, Eugene brought us our dinner and asked us if we wanted to stay in and play dominoes. He was pretty mad when we said no, that we had a date. But I think that was more to do with the fact that I remained - and still do - the unbeaten Scottish Champion in Cuba!!!

After we left the party, we wandered down to the main street again. It was Saturday night so, even busier than the night before. Again, it was a nightclub personified! We met many people again. All keen to say hello and talk to us and stuff. The we met another guy. He was carrying his pet crocodile...okay...let's talk politics!

He was very disparaging about Cuba. He said that many days go by where he doesn't eat so that his younger siblings can eat. He wants to travel, but can't get a visa. He has to live with many people in his house because he can't afford his own place. He hates it. He is poor, like everyone in Cuba. And he is a school teacher. Then it all went horribly wrong. He started extolling the virtues of the US and particularly George W. Well, I said my piece, because I thought we were having a sharing of ideas, a discussion. However, when I finally got to say what I though - I don't have to re-iterate here I am sure - then I never saw that wee guy for dust...and me loving his crocodile too!

And that was us...Goodbye la Isla and back to Havana.

HAVANA 16th January

After coffee with Lizzie and Pablito, we were off back to the airport and back to Havana. We didn't go back to Ernesto's place, mainly because we wanted our own loo, but also because Mark & Jules had shared their cockroach story with us by now!

No, we found a lovely wee place just off Plaza Vieja...back to the beginning, but with no Chicken Skewers this time! We stayed overlooking the convent and I'm sure that the sisters who ran it used to live in the convent! The were lovely and welcoming and caring. Telling us what to do, where to go, what not to do and so on. It was lovely.

It was also very nice to be in a city that you know a wee bit. We were cutting about without the aid of our map and if felt really good. Again, we saw and heard amazing music. Although, by this time, the new year celebrations had died down a good bit - This meant we could actually sleep through the night.

Next day we went to find that wee market we saw first time round. Unfortunately, it was only open Wed-Sun - it was Monday! Still, we managed to track down some gifts for folk and to bid farewell to this amazing city; and country. And, then we were off.

It was a fine flight home, I would definitely recommend Air France.

Of course there is much I missed out about this trip. It was impossible to get it all in - especially if I want to get some rehearsals in for Friday. But, there was the fact that we didn't sleep well...as well as the beds being about 50 years old, there was constant street sounds. Or the fact that the pollution in Havana was so bad, it was difficult to breath. Or the lovely wee kids that we gave pens and stuff to who were all delighted and posed for us in pictures. Or all of the amazing people that we were lucky enough to spend time with. Of the amazing style these people had.

But as ever, its always good to get home...


January 17th-31st 

Mark and Jules collected us from the airport desperate to hear about the rest of our trip and to tell us about theirs. It was so exciting reliving it all again. And, by the time we got home, wee Caitlin, her mum and all of our pals were there to make us a big dinner and to listen to us talk over our trip - it was great. How good to get home and see what it is that you have.

A couple of other things happened in January, but I will keep them brief don't worry - anyway, I'm sure your coffee's cold by now!

My eldest niece had a wee baby boy - she's just a baby herself and now she's got her own...where does the time go?

As well as this, I was invited to play at one of the Tsunami Relief benefits at Oran Mor, organised by Spirit Aid. Of course this was an absolute pleasure, especially when it became apparent that Paul Buchanan of the Blue Nile would be playing too - yes, this would be a good one. Of course it was. I don't know how much money was raised, but when Paul was on, the MC cam on stage twice and said that they had been offered £2,000 for the cause if he'd sing such and such a song - pretty amazing. He sang four songs and raised four grand!

It was all going swimmingly until Nazareth came on. I have never heard anything as loud in my whole life - it was excruciating! I'm sure the band were brill, but I couldn't hear anything.

Next up, after this voluminous assault on the ears was the acoustic Carol Laula - this would be a hard one. Especially since the MC introduced me as an emerging new talent ! 'Well,' says I, 'its a long time since I've been called emerging!'. Anyway, a great night and I'm sure there was some serious money made for such a desperate cause.


February 

Okay, even I'm bored with me now...Feb has been a good month. Lots of logistical things to do, lots of work to tie up. Year End accounts and stuff like that. Also, got new floorboards throughout the house, so I find myself cleaning a lot of dust.

Of course, I have a show coming up that I have spend much of February rehearsing for. The new stuff is sounding pretty good. I think you will find it different to what's gone before - a wee bit anyway.

I had a lovely show with Liz Lochhead, Poet Laureate on Valentines night. This consisted of Liz reading some of her work and my singing some songs in between. It was quite a spectacular night and certainly reinforced my admiration of this very cool woman. Judy and Caitlin drove me through to this show. And, when I asked Judy if we could take Liz Lochhead through, she nearly fainted. Judy has been a big fan for years. Needless to say, they got on like a house on fire and Judy is now telling everyone that she and Liz are best of pals! This is something I hope to do more of.

Anyway, enough!

I'm off - fully aware of the difficulties some people must have if they are writing a book!

Have a great time in March and I hope to see as many of you as possible at the Tron Show next Friday.

All the best - and to the two readers who made it this far? Thanks!

Carolita...!